| The Red InnWest End waterfront | The special-occasion dinner — fine dining on a deck over the water at the far end of town. Sunset seatings go first. Worth doing on the first night so the trip has a shape. | $$$$ | Day books open |
| Victor'sNew American | Plates to share, serious cocktails, and beignets people plan their evening around. Reliably the best all-round dinner in town and the easiest to get four people into. | $$$ | Required |
| The PointeFarm-to-table coastal | Upscale and precise. The butter-poached lobster pappardelle is the dish. The most grown-up meal on the list. | $$$$ | Required |
| Ciro and Sal'sItalian since 1954 | A candlelit cellar down an alley off Commercial, essentially unchanged for seventy years. Sit downstairs, order pasta, let it be romantic. | $$$ | Required |
| Sal's PlaceWest End, on the beach | Small, right on the sand, and arguably the most charming table in Provincetown. It's been cash only in the past, so worth checking when we book. | $$$ | Required |
| Front StreetChef-owned Italian | An institution in a brick basement. The menu changes constantly and locals still eat here, which is the tell. | $$$ | Recommended |
| Strangers & SaintsMediterranean, garden patio | Shared plates in an old sea captain's house with a garden out back. The right call for a loud group dinner. | $$$ | Recommended |
| The MewsTwo levels on the water | Sand-level dining room downstairs, a bistro and a very well-stocked vodka bar upstairs. The best plan for a rainy night. | $$$ | Recommended |
| Fanizzi'sSeafood on the bay | Big menu, big portions, water on three sides, and prices that come as a relief after four days of the above. | $$$ | Recommended |
| The Lobster PotThe neon sign | Yes, it's the touristy one. It's also good Portuguese-inflected seafood with award-winning chowder. No reservations ever — go at 4:30 or wait an hour. | $$ | Walk in |
| The CanteenCounter service, back deck | A lobster roll, and a crab rangoon grilled cheese that has no business being as good as it is. Order at the counter and eat in the sand out back. | $$ | Walk in |
| Cafe HeavenBreakfast | The breakfast sandwich with Heaven Fries, and a line out the door by ten. Go at 8:30 on whichever morning we have it together. | $$ | Walk in |
| Nor'East Beer GardenPatio, everything homemade | Tucked back off the street with a good beer list and food better than it needs to be. A useful landing spot between the beach and tea. | $$ | Walk in |
| Spiritus PizzaOne in the morning | Less a restaurant than the closing ceremony. Everyone comes out of the bars at one and stands in the street outside Spiritus eating a slice. We'll end up here. | $ | Walk in |